Body Tension

Good core strength is the big key to unlocking hard, steep boulder problems. Suzan Dudink gives us an insight into how she trains for the tension...

Naturally (one of my family traits) I have weak lower back muscles and lower abs muscles, so I need to train those muscles actively and frequently. My upper abs became quite strong over the years, as I always have been doing normal sit-ups frequently (for both athletics and climbing). Unfortunately, I believe you don't use these muscles as much in climbing as the ones mentioned above.

To train my lower back and lower abs I alternate between 'isolated' bodytension exercises (like leg-raises, the wheel, spidermans, medicine ball exercises etc.) and more 'climbing related exercises' which include the use of body tension (e.g. campussing, exercises on the 45 degree board etc).

While working at Climb Newcastle, I have noticed that not may people enjoy doing 'isolated' body tension exercises. During my ladies session, we always finish with a 'core/strength' session. And for as far as I can tell, a lot of the ladies who participate in the ladies coaching session have improved their body tension since. My advice to people who don't like 'body tension exercises', but do want to improve their body tension, is to try and integrate a (short) 'core session' in your climbing session. In addition, try and do the core exercises together (i.e. with other people), it seems less likely you will forget about them if you do it together. And trust me, after a while they are not too bad to do at all ;).

Training Body Tension

Here are some exercises to try...

L hang pull ups:
There are many variations on this. Either static 90 degree lock with your arms or be doing pull ups, either way keep your legs at 90 degrees, either straight out, or more easily in a 'sitting' position with knees bent. See image left.

The Wheel:
Stay on your knees, wheel it away from you and then bring it back in. The slower the better but don't let your back arch inwards.

Spiderman:
Start in a press up position and move your legs and arms outwards until your body is as close as possible to the floor. Hold this position.

Superman:
Rest on one knee and the opposite forearm, outstretch with the other two limbs as far as possible. Don;t forget both sides!

Medicine and swiss balls:
There are loads of medicine and swiss ball exercises on the posters in the training room at Climb Newcastle. Almost all of these are good for body tension.

Suzan Dudink is a coach at Climb Newcastle and one of the top female climbers operating worldwide, having recently reached the 8a+ bouldering grade. Suzan runs the centre's ladies coaching night on Monday nights.