Dynamic Movement

When you begin to push your climbing level, dynamic movement becomes less of an option and more of a necessity, so taking your feet off is something to get used to! The king of dynos, Chris Graham gives us his top tips...

Half of the time harder moves equate to further apart holds in the real world (the other half - smaller holds - we can save for another time!) and becoming good at climbing dynamically is something few achieve, yet it could improve the climbing of many people.

Dynamic movement roughly falls into two categories.

• Moves where you keep a point of contact, usually leaving the starting holds with you feet (otherwise you could have done the move static) and keeping a hand on.
• And those where you lose all points of contact, which is a true 'dyno'.

Tips for Success

Safety first:
Dynamic moves (and particularly dynos) can be dangerous so check your landing is clear and if possible make friends with a spotter.

Preparation:
Dynamic moves put a lot of strain on muscles so it is essential that you are well warmed up. Unless you are going for an onsight attempt have a good feel of the hold you are slapping for as how you grab it could be crucial. Think of different options; would it be better to wrap it? Or if it's a pocket would it be better to go for the top of the hold with your thumb in the pocket rather than needing the precision of getting your fingers in?

Think Positive:
I can't overstate how important confidence is for success. Believe!

Push from your legs:
Your legs are much bigger than your arms (for most of us at least). Take advantage of this and make sure you push from your legs.

1 Point of Contact?
If you think you can keep your bottom hand on then you need to fight for your life to keep it on when your top hand hits the target hold.

Keep your eye in:
Don't take your eyes off the hold you are going for, not even for a second.

It's all in the timing:
Check out the videos and you will see that timing and fluidity are everything. It's all about getting your whole body working together to propel you upwards.

Use the momentum:
Finally as you have propelled yourself upwards you will almost by default be left swith few footholds to stand on. You will also have lots of upward momentum. Use it wisely!

Training Dynamic Movement

Training for dynamic moves isn't easy but it is possible. Here's some exercises to try (make sure you warm up!)

Doubles:
Do a circuit of very easy problems and go up them moving both hands at once (keeping your feet on usually). This will build your timing and confidence.

Feet Off:
Get used to the core strength required to reset your feet after a dynamic move by purposefully popping for holds, letting your feet swing off and then resetting them in the correct place for the next move. Repeat to the top!

Practice, practice, practice:
Nothing beats practice and there are always ways to have a go. If there aren't specific problems set at a wall make your own up.

Good luck!

Chris Graham is one of Climb Newcastle's owners and is renowned for his dynamic style of climbing, demonstrated most famously on Caterpult (8a+) at Kyloe In the Woods, Northumberland. Chris has also won countless international dyno opens in his time representing the British Bouldering Team.