System Board Training

System training is a great way to isolate weaknesses in specific moves and grip types and can lead to quick gains in strength. Andy Earl explains how to put the system board theory into practice...

Often climbing alone is not sufficient to continue to improve, this I think is when it becomes fun! Training for improvement can be very rewarding, but first you have to know where to improve...

Identifying and Targeting Weaknesses:

Sounds very easy...well it is really. To identify your weaknesses, think about the problems and moves you are failing on within your grade range...

• What angle are they on?
• What sort of moves are they?
• What type of holds are they on?

It is likely and normal that you will find a common weakness.

Grip Strength:

Identifying weaknesses is a great starting point and for many people type of holds, for example (and most commonly) slopey open handed holds are normally the main problem for indoor bouldering. If you are a strong crimper but cannot hold slopers then you may want to focus on just slopers for a period of time, this may sacrifice some of your crimp strength to become a better all around climber. The same applies for the other type of grips as well.

Grip strength is the ability to clamp down on holds. It can be defined as contact strength (slopers), crimp strength, pocket strength, or pinch strength. Each type of grip requires different recruitment of the muscles in your forearms, and this requires practice.

The System Board:

Working weaknesses requires practice and repetition of the same movement. Grip strength is no different. A system board is an ideal method of repeating the same movement on the same holds and allows you to measure progress as all the variables are fixed.

Pic of board here

Example System Board Session:

First up, warming up, as with any climbing session, is very important and particularly here as you will be pushing yourself hard. Do some light cardio/light climbing and stretching, and get plenty of warm up problems under your belt before you get started with the session, building up through the grades on all angles and hold types.

Let's look at an example set of exercises with the aim of improving sloper grip strength...

• Exercise 1: Matching
  Start on the lowest level of holds and climb up the slopers matching at each level. Lead with the your right hand with feet on the large set of foot holds. Repeat 2 more times on the small and wide foot holds.
• Exercise 2: Pulling Through
  Start on the lowest level of holds and climb up the slopers by pulling through, so that you never match at the same level. Lead with the your right hand. Feet on the large set of foot holds. Repeat 2 more times on the small and wide foot holds.
• Exercise 3: Wide
  Start on the lowest level of holds that are great than shoulder width apart, climb up the slopers matching at each level. Lead with the your right hand. Feet on the large set of foot holds. Repeat 2 more times on the small and wide foot holds.

Now repeat where appropriate swapping your leading hand.

Once you can complete all of the exercises successfully it is important to increase some resistance. In this case a weight belt can be used.

Check out the vid for some footage of these exercises in action and happy training!